When you tour aound Jerusalem, you know that you are walking on history; Biblical, Roman, Turkish, a recent war – you name it and we’ve got it. Guests are consistenly amazed at the wealth of stories or parables readily available. Even as a local, I am constantly ‘watching’ secrets emerge out of this precious city – from its walls, the back streets, its houses of worship.

Take last night. My wife and I wandered into the Ein Kerem neighbourhood along the south west edge of the capital. A mile down the road is a site made holy to Christians by John the Baptist. On a far hill is the Holocaust Museum and the silhouette of a railway carriage, recalling past horrors. Today, Ein Kerem is an artist quarter, replete with stylish restaurants housed in structures, built by the British army during the Mandate period. Every 5 yards, and a different twist in the time tunnel.

For the record, we had brilliant fish supper, balanced by a superb cabarnet from the Golan wineries.

Now contrast all that with our tour last week of the Nahlaot region. This area was set up in the 1920s, when Jews were forced to flee parts of the Old City. The wheat fields were gradually replaced with small houses. The open wells, collective washing lines, and public ovens of 90 years ago – amazingly, several are still visible today.

The guide, Jackie Levy, reeled off stories. Each building seemed to own its own foods, smells and hero. Many of Levy’s characters had seemingly grown up in “a glorious and happy poverty”.  

Nahalot backs on to the colourful fruit market called Machane Yehuda, where many of its residents work. Fittingly, it is here where you can see people from all backgrounds, flocking to sell and buy, effectively creating a new round of fables.