Is there such a thing as the traditional Jerusalem breakfast?

A few years ago, I returned to London, where I grew up. Leaving my hotel room and going past the dining room, I was struck by a smell that immediately recalled school breakfasts; rashes, greasy sausages, fried eggs, drained down by tea with lots of sugar. I hasten to add that I did not eat it at school, but you can never forget.  You know it at the instant. Is there a Jerusalem equivalent?

Possibly the first place to start is the best-seller cookbook from Yotam Ottolehgji and Sami Tamini, “Jerusalem“.  It is a great read. Significantly, the opening section is on vegetables. The spices ooze out of the pages. However, there is no specific heading on breakfasts nor is there a mention in the index.

Moving on, I remember that when I first came to the Holy City over thirty years ago, you felt that people were eating falafel in pita bread morning, noon and night. The taste of the frying oil was smothered and hidden by the heaps of humus and a hot tomato spice. As local brands of corn flakes were expensive and revolting, this seemed to make a (relatively) healthy substitute for the morning starter.

In 2013, the world has changed. As bloggers 21C noted: “Lonely Planet included the shakshouka at Jerusalem’s Tmol Shilshom café on its recent Top 10 list of the world best breakfasts.” Actually, for many from Europe or America, shakshouka is simply loads of poached eggs with lots of pepper and more tomato-type spices. For novelty, it often comes served in ovenware. However, Ottolenghi himself traces the origins of the delight to Tunisia.

“Morgens” is a brand new restaurant, just off the bubbly Emek Refaim Street and not far from the magic of the Old City. The owners are hoping to latch on to the theme that Jerusalem has been and remains a very cosmopolitan city, attracting influences from all over the world. They offer eight different types of breakfasts, including a Mexican alternative and a highly delicious ‘Garden of Eden’, which is not recommended for those watching the calories.

Of special interest to me was the first item on the menu – an Israeli breakfast. I will leave my readers to go and sample the delights of Morgens, which is already attracting a steady clientelle. For me, what I like to see on my plate is first and foremost a tomato, cucumber, lettuce and red onion salad, finely chopped, doused with a careful balance of lemon juice and olive oil. I insist on a sweet tahina to be available, according to the taste buds of the moment.

To the side should be a healthy supply of large green and black olives, preferably home pickled. Next to these ought to be a portion of white cheese, Lebana, mixed with a light coating of zatar – a form of wild thyme – and olive oil. A helping of beetroot,seasoned with fresh parsely is a must. And the final item is a lightly fried egg, packed with green herbs such as oregano, basil and even mint. Naturally, the pitta (or brown bread) should be freshly baked.

As for the hot drink, clearly black coffee or tea with mint should be a must. At this final stage, honesty forces me to admit to a small degree of hypocrisy. Having grown up in the UK, I love my morning tea with milk. Some habits are too good to do away with, even in the holiest of cities.